When the silky white starch was first milled from the center of the corn kernel almost 200 years ago, creamy puddings soon became common desserts. My grandmother’s 1912 cookbook suggests a vanilla pudding topped with poached fruit. Here was a quick, inexpensive pud that didn’t demand stoking up the oven or rolling pastry. One hundred years later, grocery shelves displayed little cardboard boxes of cornstarch pudding mixes, and school cafeterias featured small, stemmed glass bowls of chocolate, butterscotch and vanilla pudding. Though tempting to view, the box pudding was usually, artificially flavored and cloyingly sweet.
Now that we’re really ready to walk away from prepared food, we can retreat to the original heirloom cornstarch puddings. We can lighten the sugar, intensify the flavor with real chocolate and make a nursery dessert something special for all ages. My granddaughters are delighted with chocolate pudding presented in stemmed martini glasses. For elders preferring a small serving, a rinsed eggshell half filled with pudding and nestled in an eggcup will make a perfect amount. Pretty recycled jam jars filled with homemade chocolate pudding make gifts to lighten anyone’s midweek blues.
Chocolate pud’s not a place skimp on richness when you’re looking for full flavor. Use whole milk or add a tablespoon of butter along with reduced fat milk. Cream is lovely but optional, and if possible, select a fine eating chocolate.
Chocolate Pudding
2 tablespoons sugar
1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
pinch of salt, scant 1/8 teaspoon
4 fl. oz. (½ cup) cream or whole milk
2 egg yolks
8 fl. oz. (1 cup) whole milk
2 oz. good semisweet chocolate, chopped, ½ a 4 oz. bar or scant 2/3 cup chopped
1 teaspoon vanilla
In a small bowl combine the sugar, cornstarch, cocoa and salt. Stir with a small whisk to remove all lumps. Blend in cream and egg yolks.
In small heavy saucepan scald 1 cup milk. Pour in the cocoa mixture, scraping everything from the bowl with a rubber spatula. Whisk to evenly combine then remove whisk and continue to stir in a figure-8 motion with a wooden spoon. Cook over moderate heat until the pudding thickens evenly and pops at least one boil bubble. Remove from heat and stir in chopped chocolate. Cool slightly. Stir again to evenly blend in melted chocolate; add vanilla. Divide into dessert cups or pour into a serving bowl. Decorate with curled chocolate if desired. Makes generous 2 cups, 4 to 6 servings.
Mary Jo’s cookbook is available at Amazon.com http://amzn.to/9lOnZv